METALSMITH SOCIETY'S TOP STONE SETTING TIPS

Here are some of the most popular tips that have been shared about stone setting on the Metalsmith Society page!

GETTING YOUR BEZELS SMOOTH FROM @lejewelrydesigns

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Here is a tip for getting your bezels smooth like BUDDAH from @lejewelrydesigns -“After using a hammer handpiece, there will be a lot of marks and scratches. To remove the marks and scratches, without scratching the stone, use pumice wheels. They magically sand the bezel wall, without hurting the stone. Yoi can see the left side of the bezel has been sanded, compared to the right side (third photo 😁👊)” this tool is called the AdvantEdge Pumice Wheel Kit and Lauren purchased hers at @riogrande 💃🏼 I own em too, they are indeed magical. Always wear eye protection 😎 when using them and apply gentle pressure as they take material away pretty rapidly. 🤘 #jewelrycommunity #metalsmith #benchjeweler #bezelsetting

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Oct 27, 2018 at 5:37am PDT

USING FLOSS TO PREVENT YOUR STONE GETTING STUCK FROM 
@earth_to_chandra

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This is an awesome technique, as shown by jeweler @earth_to_chandra for not getting a stone stuck in a bezel. Simply thread some floss underneath the stone (in this case she is creating a setting for a unique piece of elk ivory) then you have something to pull the stone out in case it gets stuck, before you are ready to set it. Which is 😵 when that happens. Anyone have other techniques they use to ensure a stone does not get stuck while testing their bezel fit? Share it with us! #metalsmithsociety #stonesetting #stonesettingprocess #bezelsetting #bezelsettingprocess #jewelrymaking #jewelrystudent #jewelrymakingtechniques

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Feb 3, 2018 at 6:35pm PST

PROTECTING YOUR PIECE WHILE SETTING FROM @hannah.lynn.jewelry

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I’d never seen alligator tape used this way! Thank you so much for sharing this genius idea @hannah.lynn.jewelry - “Some jewelers use alligator tape to protect their fingers... fingers heal, I'd rather protect my detailed metal work while setting 💎🔨” there is nothing worse than when you are in the final stages (setting stones) and you slip with a burnisher and scratch your piece 😭🤬 I bet alligator tape would help protect a piece from getting marked while held in a vise too. 🤔 Will have to experiment with that. #metalsmithsociety #alligatortape #benchjeweler #ladysmith #stonesetting #stonesettingtips #stonesettingtechniques #jewelrymaking #jewelrymakingtools

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Mar 23, 2018 at 4:35am PDT

KEEPING YOUR STONE FROM SHIFTING WHILE SETTING FROM 
@aimeesutanto

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Amazing tip to keep your stone from shifting when you start to set it from @aimeesutanto - "Handy tip when bezel setting: use a skinny length of blu tack to temporarily hold it down, preventing it from jumping out during the initial stage of tapping the bezel wall. Once it is secured, just remove it and tap away " This is what she used in the top left image 🤯 SUCH A GOOD IDEA!! Do you have a different technique? Tell us! As for this tack I found it on amazon and will link in my stories but I’m sure you can find this everywhere, I recall using it to put posters on my walls as a kid 😂 #metalsmithsociety #metalsmith #ladysmith #bezelsetting #stonesetting

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Jan 2, 2019 at 5:35am PST

POSITIONING PRONGS FOR SOLDERING FROM 
@sweetbellajewelry

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Here’s a way to get your prongs to stay in position while soldering from @sweetbellajewelry - “For prongs I use a soft solderite tile. It’s soft enough to push the wire prongs right into it.” 🤯 You know, the Metalsmith Challenge this month just so happens to be creating a prong setting 😏 just sayin! Thank you so much for sharing 👊🏻🙏🏻✨ #metalsmithsociety #jewelrygang #solderingtips #prongsetting #prongsettingtips #jewelrymaking #benchjeweler #ladysmith #instasmithy

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on May 10, 2018 at 4:44am PDT

TECHNIQUE FOR SANDING YOUR BEZELS FLAT FROM 
@dreamlandcreations

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Here is a wonderful technique to sand your bezels from @dreamlandcreations “Tape some sandpaper down to your work surface. Apply light but even pressure on your bezel (you don't want to squish it!) and move in a figure 8 motion. This creates a flush surface!” Thank you so much for sharing this simple, effective technique. It’s important to have a nice flush surface to ensure a good solder joint 👍 #metalsmithsociety #jewelrytipoftheday #jeweler #metalsmith #jewelrymakingtechniques

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Jan 30, 2019 at 5:14am PST

SANDING A CURVE ONTO A BEZEL FROM @amandabrittin 

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Here is a tip for sanding a curve onto your bezel and preventing the bezel from bending from @amandabrittin - “Use your ring bezel and tape sand paper in the correct size area to sand the bezel to the correct curve. Since the bezel is soft and can easily lose its shape from the pressure of sanding it, put the stone in the bezel, but create a little copper or silver base from scrap wire to protect the bottom of the stone from being sanded. Add a little tape to bottom of the stone too to keep it clean!” We talked about this months ago but I love this additional tip of adding the scrap wire and tap! 🙌 Thanks Amanda! #metalsmithsociety #bezelsetting #jewelrymakingtipoftheday

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Nov 2, 2018 at 5:21am PDT

MAKING YOUR OWN LITTLE FLUSH SETTING KIT FROM 
@betycampuzanojoyeria 

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Here is an awesome flush setting tip from @betycampuzanojoyeria to kick off this months #metalsmithchallenge! “This is how I organize my burs, I use nail polish (different colors for different stone sizes) and store the drill bit, ball bur, setting bur and hart bur inside one of the boxes my burs arrived in.” Also featured in the first pic is a blue wax stick which helps you pick up stones and test them in the seat, prior to setting. I recently embarked on a flush setting journey to improve my skills and there are many different seat cutting techniques! Some use drill bit/setting bur. Some use drill bit/flame bur/setting bur some use drill bit/ball bur/setting bur and then a hart bur (to create a seat for the stone girdle to click into place) what method do you use?!? Tell us below!!! And thank you again to Bety for sending this over and that amazing diagram she created to show what her different burs do 🙌 #flushsetting #stonesetting #stonesettingtips #jewelrycommunity

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Nov 3, 2018 at 5:23am PDT

USING LUBRICANT WHEN FLUSHSETTING FROM @corkieboltonjewelry

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Here is a tip for flush setting. Make sure you use a lubricant while you are drilling your seat AND on top of the the stone prior to burnishing. Lubricating helps protects the stone and helps the burnisher glide smoothly. I also keep my burnisher perpendicular initially. I’m using @pepetools_usa Pepelube (I’ll link in my TOOLS highlights) but you can use other brands as well! Hopefully this is helpful for this month’s #Metalsmith challenge #stonesettingtip #flushsetting #jewelrymakingtipoftheday

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Nov 26, 2018 at 5:34am PST

GETTING THE PERFECT BEZEL SEAM FROM 
@kaypeajewelry

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Here is a fabulous step by step of getting your bezel wire seam PERFECT 🥰 from @kaypeajewelry - “To get a perfect fit when making a bezel I start out by squaring one end of the bezel wire off by filing it down in my miter jig. Then I tightly form it around the stone and use a pin to scratch a mark where the wire overlaps. I then trim the wire outside of the score mark and then put the wire back in the miter jig using the score mark as a guide and then file the wire down square exactly to the score mark. When in doubt, make it a little bigger and file off extra as needed.” Love this and love the tip within the tip: using a pin to scratch a line for cutting your bezel! It’s perfect! Thank you so much for sharing! If you have a different method, please share with us! You can even email me pictures if you’d like to share with the community that way! 🙏😘 #metalsmith #ladysmith #jewelrymaking #bezelsetting #jewelrymakingtipoftheday #metalsmithsocietystudio

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Feb 27, 2019 at 5:11am PST

VISUAL TUTORIAL FOR CREATED PRONG SETTINGS FOR CABOCHONS FROM @lucywalkerjewellery

SETTING STONES ATTACHED TO EARRING POSTS FROM @moodichic

GENERAL BEZEL SETTING TIPS FROM @annperryjeweller

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Here is some solid advice on setting bezels from @annperryjeweller - If you're hammer setting start on the "North" side of the stone and, holding the tool as shown in your non-dominant hand, gently tap the end of it with your hammer in a series of light, sharp taps. The metal should flatten slightly and just bend over the edge of the stone. Check and make sure the stone is still sitting flat then rotate the piece 180° so the "South" side is now on the far side and use the tool and hammer to gently tap the edge of the bezel as you did with the first stone. Repeat these steps for the East and West sides as well. Then tap each of the remaining corners. Finally, use your tool (I usually use the smaller square tool) to move in small arcs around the setting. This essentially burnishes the edge. The hammer handpiece process is the same (except I start East, West, then North, South) and you now have an extra hand to hold the stone in place! I clean up my settings using pink silicone wheels.” This tip also applies to those using a rocker or pusher of some sort! Thank you so much for sharing this tip!! We need all the setting tips 🙏🏻😁 #stonesetting #bezelsetting #hammersetting #jewelrymakingtools #jewelrymakingtipoftheday

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Dec 10, 2018 at 5:25am PST

SECURING YOUR WORK WITH THERMOLOC WHILE SETTING FROM @alwaysaleda

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Here is a technique for securing your work while stone setting from @alwaysaleda - “The t-plate from GRS is a Godsend. I haven’t got a ball-vise, (or the room for one at the moment!) so I use this in their ring clamp for setting stones in flat or larger pieces. I like Jett Ballistic to hold my work (I’m using thermoloc in these pics) then once it has dried and solidified to the t-plate, just clamp it tightly into the ring clamp and set those stones!! Works like a dream!” Thank you so much for sharing this, I have so much more to learn about stone-setting but if there is one thing I’ve learned you MUST secure your piece. It makes the job substantially more efficient and your pushing on the bezel more effective. So I will continuously share tips like these because I find them so helpful! 🙏🏻 #stonesettingtips #bezelsetting #bezels #jewelrytools #grstools #jewelrymakingtipofrheday

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Dec 17, 2018 at 5:27am PST

TECHNIQUE FOR STRETCHING A BEZEL THAT IS SLIGHTLY TIGHT FROM 
@dancingbluestone

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Here is a method for stretching that bezel that is just a little too tight 😬 from @dancingbluestone - “I pry the pre-shaped bezel over the tip of a metal stamp and hammer out with a plastic mallet. I use a roll and stretch technique (on a thick piece of leather) I roll and tap, roll and tap to stretch the metal. a little goes a long way. be careful not to make it too big. I then shape the bezel with my fingers to get it to fit over the stone again. Then I use a burnisher to get the exact shape desired. “ 😁 Thank you SO much for sharing this! We’ve all had a slightly too tight bezel 🙋‍♀️ would love to share other techniques as well! Shoot me an email/ tell us below in the comments! 🙏🏻 #metalsmithsociety #bezelsetting #stonesetting #jewelrymakingtipsandtricks #jewelrymakingtipoftheday

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Jan 3, 2019 at 5:18am PST

MAKING SMALL ROUND BEZELS FROM TUBING FROM 
@weatherbeatendesigns

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If you need a tiny round bezel use this tip from @weatherbeatendesigns “In case other people have been struggling to make tiny bezels like I have, here’s a nice little life hack: Make seamless bezels for your tiniest cabochons from fine silver tubing! Tubing comes in a variety of sizes, so you’re bound to find one that will fit snugly around your littlest stones.” 🤯 this is such a simple brilliant tip, that can save a lot of time and frustration! Thank you for sharing. While we are on the topic of stone setting if you all want to share some of your favorite dealers in the comments we would love to support them! #jewelrycommunity #stonesettingtip #stonesetting #bezelsetting @unumdesign #unumfam

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Aug 9, 2018 at 4:23am PDT

USING YOUR PLIERS FOR SHAPING A BEZEL FROM 

@jewelryinstructor

CUTTING A SEAT BY HAND FROM @noctuajewellery

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Here is a technique for cutting a seat when stone setting from @noctuajewellery -“If you don’t have a flex shaft pendant motor with a low speed and you’re trying to make seats for settings I find they can get too big or deep too quickly. I use a swivel pin vise with a setting bur to cut the seat by hand! I use burlife to lubricate.” Thank you for sharing this! We always want to hear about different stone setting techniques! If you have a hot tip you can email me at corkie@metalsmithsociety.com 🙏🏻😘 #stonesetting #metalsmithsociety #jewelrymakingtips

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Sep 3, 2018 at 5:01am PDT

MAKING A STEPPED BEZEL FROM @fairbankandperry

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Here is a fabulous tip from @fairbankandperry if you are making a stepped bezel - “For smaller stones, like this 6x4mm citrine, we often make both the seat and the outer bezel from one tall piece of bezel strip. Once the bezel is made, it is cut horizontally into two pieces. Then we just size down one half until it fits inside the other. Voila!” Love this method so much! Stepped bezels can definitely be a challenge and take some practice and I think this is an awesome way to accomplish that perfect fit! Thank you so much for sharing!! #metalsmithsociety #jewelrytipoftheday #fairbankandperry #onthebench #makerslife #madebyhand #handcraftedjewelry

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Sep 16, 2018 at 5:01am PDT

USING A WATCHMAKER'S KNIFE TO SET INBETWEEN TIGHT SPACES FROM @kayinemmetals

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Here is another tip to help you get inside a tight space while bezel setting from @kayinemmetals - “I use a watchmakers knife! It's super thin and can be used to wiggle the bezel fully closed! This is one of my favorite tools since my work is very dimensional! I just bought one off amazon prime for $5 and I've had it for years! It also double benefits to help get stones out for repairs, its thin knife edge can wiggle in and help pry the stone loose.” Thanks for sharing this! This tip was also mentioned on my blog when I visited @mollyavellarjewelry i’m excited to schedule more studio visits in the coming months!! Also if you are interested in this watch knife I will be linking in my story highlights “TOOLS” #metalsmithsociety #bezelsetting #bezelsettingtools #jewelrymakingtools #jewelrytipoftheday

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Oct 4, 2018 at 4:21am PDT

CREATING YOUR OWN STEP BEZEL FOR ROUND STONES FROM 
@citybythelakejewelry

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Here is a solution for creating your own stepped bezel from @citybythelakejewelry - “For stepping up a stone I like to use a jump ring or two, to circumvent the use of step bezel wire. I simply set the jump rings inside the bezel, no need to solder if they are snug. Et Voila!” You can keep a bunch of prefabricated jump rings around in various sizes for this purpose or make your own! Thank you so much for sharing this! Hope everyone has an amazing weekend! Please continue to send me tips and questions, and don’t be afraid to nudge me if I haven’t responded! Sometimes I get hundred of DMs a week and things can get bogged down in my inbox 🙏🏻😘#metalsmithsociety #jewelrytipoftheday #stonesettingtips

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Oct 6, 2018 at 5:00am PDT

TECHNIQUE FOR SETTING SMALL TUBE SET DIAMONDS FROM 
@sarahmcguirestudio

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Here is a game changing method for setting small diamonds from @sarahmcguirestudio - “I use a miter jig to hold thick-walled tubing in place while I cut a seat and set the stone. You can then adjust the height of the bezel accordingly and saw it directly off the jig (you can even flip the tube over and set a stone in the opposite side). Flux the pre-set bezels (I use Batterns) and solder into place. When soldering gold to silver, I’ll use paste flux on the silver and Batterns on the pre-set bezels. It works with diamonds and sapphires and you can pickle them too – just be sure to allow the stone to cool before quenching.  You’ll also want to burnish the setting again thoroughly after soldering. This is a great option for oddly sized stones or when you need a particularly tall bezel for something. It also allows you to make multiple bezels of precisely the same height quickly and efficiently.” When Sarah generously sent me this I had a 🤯 moment! LOVE IT! #stonesetting #tubesetting #stonesettingtips #jewelrycommunity #miterjig #jewelrytools #communityovercompetition

A post shared by Metalsmith Society (@metalsmithsociety) on Oct 24, 2018 at 5:52am PDT

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